The Success Rate

Consistency is key, in life and of course, on the wall.

But do you really know how much you’re consistent? If your new technique is getting more stable? Or if the actual rate of correct runs is getting better?

With that metric you can now understand how your trainings are evolving and modifying.

The succes rate takes into account the runs you make into the EFFICIENCY INDEX, meaning that, from your session PB we add a percentage to that time and cut out all the times over that threshold to have a precise metric.

Would you like to keep a strict or normal value?Just select it and see how much you can stay close to you session PB.

If you want to know the logic behind the formulas, it works like this:

Ex.

Session PB 6,000”

EFFICIENCY index 1: 5% -> Eff. Time1: 6,3”

Efficiency index 2: 10% -> Eff.time2: 6,6”

From here the system will cut out the data that is outside these limits and gives you the percentage of correct runs per session, you can now know the trend of your trainings to understand much better how your interventions are influencing your performance and consistency.

The % of correct runs is a key factor to determine your capabilities to deliver the right result at the right time.

Are the runs with error considered?

Of course! Especially when you are a high level athlete, an error becomes so small that can influence your time by just a little. Like this that run can still remain inside the efficiency index even if you made an error in it!

Even if you are not an high level athlete not always an error produces a significant decrease in speed, and so, minor errors doesn’t prevent you from making a good time.

At that point you would say, but like this I don’t know if I make mistakes or not! Don’t worry, you already have this graph in the Runs session.

Now that we know in depth how many of our runs we make in the right way and if the consistency is a factor we should work on more or less, we just need to go to the climbing gym, put on our shoes, and build consistency run after run!

See you at the next article and continue to get better every day!